Fancy Having Your Pet for Lunch?

Peru is a different place.

As much as I wanted to chain myself to a tree to stop guinea pig being killed for Peruvian lunch, I have learnt relatively quickly, that as visitor to this beautiful country, one has to respect traditions and ways of being.

My guinea pig restaurant experience formed part of the weekly Friday class outing. It was uninimously decided that all groups would go to a local restaurant to eat ´cuy´ (Spanish for guinea pig). Again, the restaurant is not a place you would find in Lonely Planet. Our teachers are great that way, showing us the local experience, void of tourist. As I am a semi vegetarian (eating fish), the idea of having an a pet for lunch totally freaked me out.

The group getting ready for the ´cuy´ experience

Sign welcoming us to the best Guinea Pig in Cusco

But when in Rome, tag along. I had potato instead, and went along for the ride and experience. The restaurant can only be reached by local taxi, about a 15min drive from San Blas, in a relatively new area above Cusco, known as Santiago.

As you will see from the pics, the entire guinea pig is spread out across your plate, with little feet, hands, claws and head still intact. I considered fleeing the table. But I stayed, convincing myself that this was another culturally enriching experience. I wasnt partaking in the eating, but seeing the little carcases lined up around the table, made me feel like a mass murderer.

Christina about to devour her Cuy

After the meal the teachers told the students to open up the heads, as there is a MINISCULE little bone inside (lodged somewhere behind the brain) that is shaped EXACTLY like a ´zorro´ (Spanish for fox). It is believed that this bone holds immense spiritual power if you consume it by throwing it into your glass (if consumed any other way, all spiritual power is lost). The belief is that on the night of consuming this bone, you will have vivid dreams revealing your future. A cheaper version of visiting a psychic. Tomorrow I will be able to report (after chatting to my friends), whether this belief holds true.

As we were settling our account, I heard squeaks eminating from the basement of the restaurant. When we went outside to wait for the taxi, they were busy offloading crate-fulls of guinea pig. Seeing the cute little balls of fluff being stuffed into a bag, making their way to the execution palace was the pits. Our teachers told us that before each guinea pig is killed, a prayer is given to mother earth and the animal is blessed for sharing their body for human sustenance. The German girls felt this was a lot more humane than back home (where animals are force fed in tiny spaces, under artificial light). So everyone felt that lunch was justified.

The crateful of cuys being bagged for lunch

On a less macarb note. Yesterday I went on a mini trek to the Inca ruins above San Blas, known as Temple of the Moon. I went with two friends from school and a professor in Incan history (that happens to live in my hostal). The first part of the trek was incredibly steep, but the landscape was totally worth the climb. Ofcourse Pablo (the Incan history prof) gave us lots of interesting info about Incan history during the trek.

Temple of the Moon - the tin houses form part of the excavation camp

This ruin is currently being excavated by archeologists, and for this reason entrance is still free. Once we got to the top of the site, there were Peruvian tour-guides sitting there giving us all sorts of fascinating info (if you listen you pay, as I later found out..*another lessson learnt*).

There was a round sundial, which the Incas used to indicate time. There were also carvings of snake, birds and puma - out of solid stone. Sadly, parts of the bodies were missing. All three animals represent different stages of the afterlife. The puma - the present life, the snake - life after death and the bird - life before birth.  

The round Incan sundial

View from the top of Temple of the Moon

There was also a large cave being excavated, with a big hole in the roof. On the night of soltice, the moon illuminates the entire cave into a wonderworld of light. The window-like structure in which I am sitting is also carved out of solid stone - (how they did this with minimal tools still baffles my brain). The Incas believed that man came into existance through portals that looked like windows. Very much like the one I am sitting in. After death, the spirit returned to the afterworld, through this window. For this reason, Inca mummies (who were respected Incan priests) were often brought out and placed in these windows during the day time and offered food & drink.

Sitting in the window to the After Life

The scenery is stunning, and only a foretaste of the weekend to come. Tomorrow morning (after I move to my new residence), three German girls from my school and I will be visiting The Sacred Valley. We will be sleeping in Ollaytambo tomorrow night, and heading through to various Incan ruins,
Moray, Salinos and the famous market of Pisac. REALLY looking forward to it.

On a more personal note - had a really rough week. Missed home and familiarity a lot. Felt as if the walls of the apartment in which I am staying was swallowing me up. Didnt help that the week itself was uneventful. School finishes at 1pm and found myself ambling aimlessly around the streets until night descended. All the German girls live far out, so felt pretty alone after school. I know that this experience is making me stronger, but it remains a sinking feeling.

My mom always says that no matter how desperate you may feel during the night, there is always a new day break, a new day. So for now, I will remained focused on a BRIGHT new day and all the adventure it holds in store.