Peru - A Culinary Feast (with a view)

I cant believe it is Sunday already. The week passed in a flurry of activities and as a result I haven't managed to do an inkling of the studying I set out to do.

All good intentions aside. The first part of the week was spent finding warm clothes. Every day I wear just about every item of clothes I own, and even bought a mother of a poncho, which wraps around me like a blanket. When I went to celebrate St Patrick`s day in my new blanket on Thursday, I realised to what an all-time low my coldness has plumeted.

St Patricks day was celebrated in Cusco much like other parts of the common-wealth world, with lots of balloons hanging from every Irish pub in the city. Gringos (foreigners) sporting hues of green, face paint and wigs. We even saw a gremlin running around. Sadly I didnt take my camera, as pocket theft happens. Better safe than sorry.
 

Every Friday my language school organises an outing to one of the noteworthy places in the surrounds. These outings are typically not museum or church based (there are hundreds to visit here), but include things like the black market, animal shelter for exotic species illegally smuggled over the border, visiting the local Cusquenean restaurants (that you won`t find in Lonely Planet) and other such things.

Our class (two German girls, myself and our teacher) visited the Molino (black) market. Here you can find just about everything you need, including cheap camping and hiking gear. It is not unusual to see pig`s head being fried up in the corner, or other vile carnivorous dishes. There are enough smells to keep you entertained for millenia and the food, well, is typically Cusquenian. Food which any sane foreigner would not touch with a barge pole.

With Maja and Sandra infront of El Molino - the black market

Which brings me to my next topic. Food.

My ceviche dish

The Restaurant`s choice - enjoyed by my friends

Cusco (and I`ve heard Peru) is a culinary paradise. Be prepared to loosen your belt a notch or two after visiting. There is an amazing array of local dishes, infused with other South American flavours. One of the most famous is ceviche, which is cold pickled fish, with a highly toxic lime content and can be extremely spicy. The Peruvians eat VERY spicy food. Even if you love spice (like I do) always ask for the watered down version. You will be glad you did.

I had my first ceviche yesterday, at the best ceviche restaurant in town, which was full to bursting with local Cusqueneans. Other students had discovered this gem of a restaurant on one of the Friday excursions. You have to take a taxi there, which only costs 3 Soles (if you bargain). The main ceviche dish costs 20Soles. I went all out and ordered half ceviche, half shrimp, which set me back 25 Soles. The strong lime taste can only be managed in small amounts (that was my experience), hence best to mix it up with another dish.

The servings here are ginormous and there is no way you can finish it all. A typical menu consists of a three course meal and most restaurants serve these for between 12-15 Soles. The main meal is eaten in the afternoon and always (without exception) consists of soup, a main meal of your choice (there are normally about three), a small dessert if you are lucky, and juice or coca tea.

Most Cusqueaneans eat off the streets or in restuarants, as it works out cheaper than making your own food. If you are brave, you can attempt the corner vendor, but be sure to use your own in-built hygiene detector to decide whether it is kosher.

The are enough bakeries to drive you mad for the sheer mass of them. The students at my school always pop in during break time to buy the famous empanada, which is pastry stuffed with cheese or meat. This is a carbohydrate calorie bomb, but TOTALLY worth it.  

The goodies on display at the bakery

Celine and I in 7th Heaven

There are more than enough stairs in Cusco to build up a wicked appetite, if you dont faint in the process that is. Acclimatisation is key to attempting the stairways, and many special places can only be reached by foot.

We walked the thousand steps (so it felt, not sure how many there were) to Christo Blanco yesterday. He looks like Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro, on a smaller scale. At night he is lit up and one can always see him stretching out his arms in blessing over the city. It is a heck of a climb to get there and you have to stop every few hundred metres. The photo only shows one part of the climb. It is not unusual to feel dizzy and spaced out for most of the walk, but the human body is a work of art and manages to adapt quickly.

Stairway to heaven (aka Christo Blanco)

Christo Blanco (translated - White Christ) which overlooks the city from His mountaintop

After our feeding frenzy we went home to have a little siesta, and hit the town running last night. We went to one of the most famous bars, known as Mythology. The evening started off with salsa classes, boasting a spectacular display of salsa expertise to sweaty gringos, who were all too keen to learn. Yours truly was also spun around by one of the instructors for a few beats, and it was a lot of fun. After the salsa show, the contemporary club tracks started playing.

In the midst of all the fun there was a police raid. All club goers got booted out into the street by the masses of army clad police, because the club (apparently) had no licence. What that means I still can´t tell you. Apparently this is routine drill in Peru, and at first we all thought it was a drug bust. This dampered the evening a bit, but not our spirit. We headed off to a rastafarian bar, where a rasta band was playing an ecclectic mix of Bob Marley infused Inca tunes. There was a lot of incence and a small fire in the middle, and I had the feeling that I was watching an old Incan ritual. The music certainly inspired old worldly clan feelings. Another magical experience that is hard to do descriptive justice. You have to hear it, to be swayed by it:-)

I'll end by posting pics from my apartment - as you will see I am extremely blessed with an amazing view over Cusco. Next Saturday I have to move to a pipsqeak apartment above the school, which I will share with two other students. So have to enjoy the last sanctity of space this week.
Despite the beautiful view, I try to spend as little time as possible in the apartment, purely because it is frostbitingly cold. This morning my water got turned off just before 9am, which meant that I just had enough time to shower, but not to fill up all my water buckets and bottles to see me through for the rest of the day.

View from my apartment

I do miss my first-world comforts a lot, as well as healthy food, a warm bed and just warmth - generally. I miss being able to cook decent food (not for want of trying) and a cuppa coffee or tea when I wake up. I am learning a heck of a lot about myself in the process. One being that I am spoilt and love my creature comforts.

Cusco still remains a place that steals your heart, despite risking your life on the narrow cobbled roads and being harassed at every street corner and feeling like a walking ATM. It is the place of legends and I look forward to discovering more of the magic.